Yes--I'm afraid you're right about the graffiti. It's everywhere and with no regard for the artistic and architectural value of what's being painted on. I can almost learn to live with some misguided attempts at street art, or poetry, or even social protest. But the scribbling and tagging makes me nuts. Thanks so much for the insightful comment-- love the idea of "haunting yourself". A beautiful image.
Arh Rome. A piece of my heart will always be in Rome, my ghostly footprints are already there. I cannot walk the streets without being accompanied by the tiptap of stilettos and the laughter from too many glasses of la Gioisa wine. Who would have thought you could haunt yourself?
Yes, Rome has been wrapped up for the Jubileo and the Berninis scrubbed back to a bone white. Much as I love the patina of old age, I’m glad. If there is one thing that saddens me about the beloved city of my extended late twenties, it is the graffiti. It is as if the fad for tattoos is enforced on the walls (even if some of that graffiti is poetry.) I long for a time when Rome is not made ugly by its aerosol armed vandals. Maybe the pope can have a word.
We decided to stay up north for these opening Jubilee days. I do want to see all the shiny new monuments and walk through one of those magic doors. I am hoping that February or March before Easter is the time to do it.
Thanks for the wonderful post. We were in Rome this past spring, and as you said, the city resembled a Christo exhibition. I was in Rome in 2000 for the funeral of the artist Ugo Tesoriere, and walked through the Holy Door with a very dear friend, who has now joined Ugo in heaven. I hope to return to Rome this coming year to walk through the holy door again, in memory of my two friends.
That said, I appreciate your sentiments as a resident of Rome. I live in Charleston South Carolina, and know the feeling of your home being "invaded" by tourists!
That's great that you're visiting-- you'll be impressed with how much work has been done in the city. I was rather shocked that the week of Christmas Eve all of the banners came down and everything was pretty close to finished.
Funny enough, I've actually become a bit more magnanimous about tourists since moving to Rome-- you realize that the vast majority are just hoping to experience a little of the beauty you get to live with every day. If we could just get rid of the TikTockers and the social media influencers, it really would be pretty manageable.
Thanks for all your support of Life Lived Italian and your wonderful posts on Celia's Perfect Artichoke-- they lift my heart every time. Buon Anno!
Thanks so much-- glad you enjoyed the post, and your time in Rome. This has been the first Christmas season we've been in Rome as well, and really enjoyed it. Not too crowded, the tree in Piazza del Popolo was spectacular, and we managed to catch both the tree lighting and the Opening of the Doors at the Vaticano. A very special time in a city that never ceases to amaze me.
It is kind of miraculous how they managed to get a lot of this done relatively on schedule (not all of it, obviously). It's so un-Romano. Not sure what to expect this year. I think we're definitely heading to Marche for the summer. But I have no read on how bad it will get in March/April/May. We live on Borgo Pio near the Vatican, so I expect we'll be on the front lines :)
I can imagine it's going to get pretty crazy here, especially by late spring. I think we'll spend the summer in Le Marche this year. Must say, I didn't anticipate the hymn singing groups. I'll keep an eye (or an ear) out for those.... Hope you have a wonderful New Years!
Thanks so much. Yes-- have to say, the Piazza del Risorgimento is an improvement, especially as it's been all but impassable for the past year. While a fair amount of the work isn't finished yet, it was kind of a Christmas miracle to see all of the scaffolding and fences and curtains come down last week to reveal the new construction. Would never have expected they would get as much done as they did in time for the Grand Opening!
I lived in the midst of the Jubilee back in 1975 when St.Peters was my parish and i was a volunteeer guide in the Basilica on weekends free from teaching . The hymn singing groups from around the world, the pushy nuns vying for a better view of the processions , the crowded trattorie on Borgo Pio… as you said Eric, best to head for the hills.
Yes--I'm afraid you're right about the graffiti. It's everywhere and with no regard for the artistic and architectural value of what's being painted on. I can almost learn to live with some misguided attempts at street art, or poetry, or even social protest. But the scribbling and tagging makes me nuts. Thanks so much for the insightful comment-- love the idea of "haunting yourself". A beautiful image.
Arh Rome. A piece of my heart will always be in Rome, my ghostly footprints are already there. I cannot walk the streets without being accompanied by the tiptap of stilettos and the laughter from too many glasses of la Gioisa wine. Who would have thought you could haunt yourself?
Yes, Rome has been wrapped up for the Jubileo and the Berninis scrubbed back to a bone white. Much as I love the patina of old age, I’m glad. If there is one thing that saddens me about the beloved city of my extended late twenties, it is the graffiti. It is as if the fad for tattoos is enforced on the walls (even if some of that graffiti is poetry.) I long for a time when Rome is not made ugly by its aerosol armed vandals. Maybe the pope can have a word.
Oh my your words are just magnificent.
We decided to stay up north for these opening Jubilee days. I do want to see all the shiny new monuments and walk through one of those magic doors. I am hoping that February or March before Easter is the time to do it.
Thanks for the wonderful post. We were in Rome this past spring, and as you said, the city resembled a Christo exhibition. I was in Rome in 2000 for the funeral of the artist Ugo Tesoriere, and walked through the Holy Door with a very dear friend, who has now joined Ugo in heaven. I hope to return to Rome this coming year to walk through the holy door again, in memory of my two friends.
That said, I appreciate your sentiments as a resident of Rome. I live in Charleston South Carolina, and know the feeling of your home being "invaded" by tourists!
Wow, fascinating!!
I can’t believe so many of the upgrades were completed in time! I have thought of leaving Rome for the year though…
Great post. The last 2 weeks we have been in Rome. Incredible experience for Christmas. ❣️
That's great that you're visiting-- you'll be impressed with how much work has been done in the city. I was rather shocked that the week of Christmas Eve all of the banners came down and everything was pretty close to finished.
Funny enough, I've actually become a bit more magnanimous about tourists since moving to Rome-- you realize that the vast majority are just hoping to experience a little of the beauty you get to live with every day. If we could just get rid of the TikTockers and the social media influencers, it really would be pretty manageable.
Thanks for all your support of Life Lived Italian and your wonderful posts on Celia's Perfect Artichoke-- they lift my heart every time. Buon Anno!
Thanks so much-- glad you enjoyed the post, and your time in Rome. This has been the first Christmas season we've been in Rome as well, and really enjoyed it. Not too crowded, the tree in Piazza del Popolo was spectacular, and we managed to catch both the tree lighting and the Opening of the Doors at the Vaticano. A very special time in a city that never ceases to amaze me.
It is kind of miraculous how they managed to get a lot of this done relatively on schedule (not all of it, obviously). It's so un-Romano. Not sure what to expect this year. I think we're definitely heading to Marche for the summer. But I have no read on how bad it will get in March/April/May. We live on Borgo Pio near the Vatican, so I expect we'll be on the front lines :)
Thanks! You have to come visit!
I can imagine it's going to get pretty crazy here, especially by late spring. I think we'll spend the summer in Le Marche this year. Must say, I didn't anticipate the hymn singing groups. I'll keep an eye (or an ear) out for those.... Hope you have a wonderful New Years!
Thanks so much. Yes-- have to say, the Piazza del Risorgimento is an improvement, especially as it's been all but impassable for the past year. While a fair amount of the work isn't finished yet, it was kind of a Christmas miracle to see all of the scaffolding and fences and curtains come down last week to reveal the new construction. Would never have expected they would get as much done as they did in time for the Grand Opening!
I lived in the midst of the Jubilee back in 1975 when St.Peters was my parish and i was a volunteeer guide in the Basilica on weekends free from teaching . The hymn singing groups from around the world, the pushy nuns vying for a better view of the processions , the crowded trattorie on Borgo Pio… as you said Eric, best to head for the hills.