Italy is not really filled with tourists, not even at the height of the season. The problem is that all of the visitors have gathered in the same eight places at the same time. In that spirit, I’m offering up my first, and probably only, must-see list for the Italian sightseer. The good news is, it’s not site specific. You can find it all in whatever piazza you find yourself.
It’s true— often some of the best museums in Rome are almost empty, while everyone crams into the Vaticano or the Colosseo. Maybe you’re right— maybe TikTok is doing us all a favor by pulling most of the people away from what we want to see.
Very good idea. It's such a fascinating book, but obviously describes a way of life that's almost incomprehensible on certain levels, even while it can feel quite contemporary in others. Maybe there's a much more interesting take from the female vantage point. Have been working on a project involving Caterina Sforza, who was an incredible female character from that time....
Sì, sì, è vero! The happiest times, for me, have been far from the madding crowds. Volterra is a tucked-away treat...well worth hiring a car to get there (no train station). And though Roma's Trastevere has been discovered by the hordes, a twilight walk through its streets, getting deliciously lost, is still worth doing. I will never forget just such a time a few years ago: dark was falling, I had no idea how to get back to my hotel across the rivier, and fell into step with a tiny old man, walking his little dog, Pumba. He spoke approximately zero English, so I was forced to use all my scant Italian to get directions! Ultimately, he walked me down to my bridge, and his kind face as he tipped his *coppola* and wished me *buonasera, signora!* -- yes, sweet dreams are made of these moments! Grazie, Eric! -- Brenda
This is so perfect! I just bought a house in Narni (and shudder a bit to hear it mentioned here, or anywhere else, lest it become the next TikTok thing), and the top order of business for me every time I go to Italy is lots of cappuccinos in little piazzas, just soaking in things like the ones on your list.
Sent a reply from the airplane and it looks like it may have disappeared into the ether. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks so much for the comment and congrats on choosing Narni— such a charming place. I’ll never mention it again :) I agree— we have to keep places like that intact.
ditto! I could not agree more. We were in Amalfi two hours ago, they were all sitting in Piazza Duomo, to take selfies while eating those sweetish lemon ice creams. Many of our guests (holiday home in Amalfi) look surprised when I invite them to visit Ravello - not to mention Pontone and the wonderful Valle delle Ferriere, which they don't even know exists. Many thanks to my dear friend Ali 🩷who sent me this link! She is my living myth, a true traveler, who has walked our paths suspended between sky and sea, among olive groves and lemon orchards. To my knowledge, she is one among few of our guests who went to Maiori, just few km from Amalfi, to visit the Abbey of S. Maria de Olearia, to name just one of the many artistic jewels of the Amalfi Coast, that unfortunately remain unknown to those who flock to the most famous places only to complain that they are too crowded, without discovering the true wonders that the Amalfi Coast has to offer even in high season! Congratulations for this article that shows such a different point of view.
Palazzo Farnese is such a jewel. And we had one of the best meals we've had in Italy at one of the restaurants on the main street, Trattoria del Cimino dal 1895. We were there in January and there wasn't another tourist in sight.
There are off beaten paths everywhere in Italy without the sweaty Americans, including main cities. I was in Venice a few weeks ago and I was alone in a couple of palazzos, one of them being Scuola Grande di San Rocco…such a wonder and nobody visiting. I am happy there are so many silly turists 😅
Thanks for the shoutout! And I couldn’t agree more with the items on your list. I would just add the taste of a cold lemon sorbetto or granita on a hot day.
I agree— the granita is just the perfect antidote to this sweltering summer! Thanks always for all that you write and all your support. I’ve got a full file of Laura Itzkowitz tips!
Love it. I too am guilty of going to the same places, but my visa got rejected some 84 times in the past year so let me do the big hitters. But reading your thoughts gave me the same feeling of eating at pakoras and enjoying some long awaited rain. It is all certainly in the little things.
I’ve made 2 trips to Ravenna, one in 2000 and the other in 2011 or 2012. It’s one of my favorite places in Italy. If I were to relocate to the Italian peninsula, I believe that I would choose Ravenna. The old churches with mosaics that are stunning to see, but were never crowded when I visited, added interest. The people seemed friendly and there was an organ concert in the downtown church. Other places I enjoyed were Pompeii and the Isle of Capri. I believe that traveling in colder months is best, cooler temperatures and fewer people.
What a wonderful piece! And so true- I had the whole of the palazzo ducale in urbino almost to myself last week afte a couple of days in pesaro - which was full of Italians having a lovely time on holiday. I woke up yesterday to see a flock of egrets flying towards me and then had a long and mildly incomprehensible chat with my 86 year old neighbour who is beginning to think it might be time to retire.. so many wonderful things everywhere! Thank you!
So true!! I cannot wait to be back in Lucca and nearby places in November with my husband and a return to Puglia next year with friends - to share with them the unknown gems that we’ve discovered and enjoyed in this wonderful country! Even in Rome, it’s possible to find patches of beauty and true Roman life away from the throngs of photo ops! Thank you for reminding me and sharing your experiences. All so true 💕🇮🇹
It’s true— often some of the best museums in Rome are almost empty, while everyone crams into the Vaticano or the Colosseo. Maybe you’re right— maybe TikTok is doing us all a favor by pulling most of the people away from what we want to see.
Very good idea. It's such a fascinating book, but obviously describes a way of life that's almost incomprehensible on certain levels, even while it can feel quite contemporary in others. Maybe there's a much more interesting take from the female vantage point. Have been working on a project involving Caterina Sforza, who was an incredible female character from that time....
Sì, sì, è vero! The happiest times, for me, have been far from the madding crowds. Volterra is a tucked-away treat...well worth hiring a car to get there (no train station). And though Roma's Trastevere has been discovered by the hordes, a twilight walk through its streets, getting deliciously lost, is still worth doing. I will never forget just such a time a few years ago: dark was falling, I had no idea how to get back to my hotel across the rivier, and fell into step with a tiny old man, walking his little dog, Pumba. He spoke approximately zero English, so I was forced to use all my scant Italian to get directions! Ultimately, he walked me down to my bridge, and his kind face as he tipped his *coppola* and wished me *buonasera, signora!* -- yes, sweet dreams are made of these moments! Grazie, Eric! -- Brenda
WHY leave the US and go to Italy to be in hotels full of Americans. I will never understand.
And then often spend all of your time trying to meet up with other Americans who are there too!
This is so perfect! I just bought a house in Narni (and shudder a bit to hear it mentioned here, or anywhere else, lest it become the next TikTok thing), and the top order of business for me every time I go to Italy is lots of cappuccinos in little piazzas, just soaking in things like the ones on your list.
Sent a reply from the airplane and it looks like it may have disappeared into the ether. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks so much for the comment and congrats on choosing Narni— such a charming place. I’ll never mention it again :) I agree— we have to keep places like that intact.
ditto! I could not agree more. We were in Amalfi two hours ago, they were all sitting in Piazza Duomo, to take selfies while eating those sweetish lemon ice creams. Many of our guests (holiday home in Amalfi) look surprised when I invite them to visit Ravello - not to mention Pontone and the wonderful Valle delle Ferriere, which they don't even know exists. Many thanks to my dear friend Ali 🩷who sent me this link! She is my living myth, a true traveler, who has walked our paths suspended between sky and sea, among olive groves and lemon orchards. To my knowledge, she is one among few of our guests who went to Maiori, just few km from Amalfi, to visit the Abbey of S. Maria de Olearia, to name just one of the many artistic jewels of the Amalfi Coast, that unfortunately remain unknown to those who flock to the most famous places only to complain that they are too crowded, without discovering the true wonders that the Amalfi Coast has to offer even in high season! Congratulations for this article that shows such a different point of view.
Loved this ✨✨✨
Palazzo Farnese is such a jewel. And we had one of the best meals we've had in Italy at one of the restaurants on the main street, Trattoria del Cimino dal 1895. We were there in January and there wasn't another tourist in sight.
There are off beaten paths everywhere in Italy without the sweaty Americans, including main cities. I was in Venice a few weeks ago and I was alone in a couple of palazzos, one of them being Scuola Grande di San Rocco…such a wonder and nobody visiting. I am happy there are so many silly turists 😅
Thanks for the shoutout! And I couldn’t agree more with the items on your list. I would just add the taste of a cold lemon sorbetto or granita on a hot day.
I agree— the granita is just the perfect antidote to this sweltering summer! Thanks always for all that you write and all your support. I’ve got a full file of Laura Itzkowitz tips!
Love it. I too am guilty of going to the same places, but my visa got rejected some 84 times in the past year so let me do the big hitters. But reading your thoughts gave me the same feeling of eating at pakoras and enjoying some long awaited rain. It is all certainly in the little things.
Or as they say North of the Alps, das Beste Land der Welt.
I’ve made 2 trips to Ravenna, one in 2000 and the other in 2011 or 2012. It’s one of my favorite places in Italy. If I were to relocate to the Italian peninsula, I believe that I would choose Ravenna. The old churches with mosaics that are stunning to see, but were never crowded when I visited, added interest. The people seemed friendly and there was an organ concert in the downtown church. Other places I enjoyed were Pompeii and the Isle of Capri. I believe that traveling in colder months is best, cooler temperatures and fewer people.
Amen 🙏🏼
What a wonderful piece! And so true- I had the whole of the palazzo ducale in urbino almost to myself last week afte a couple of days in pesaro - which was full of Italians having a lovely time on holiday. I woke up yesterday to see a flock of egrets flying towards me and then had a long and mildly incomprehensible chat with my 86 year old neighbour who is beginning to think it might be time to retire.. so many wonderful things everywhere! Thank you!
So true!! I cannot wait to be back in Lucca and nearby places in November with my husband and a return to Puglia next year with friends - to share with them the unknown gems that we’ve discovered and enjoyed in this wonderful country! Even in Rome, it’s possible to find patches of beauty and true Roman life away from the throngs of photo ops! Thank you for reminding me and sharing your experiences. All so true 💕🇮🇹